5/12/08
I am at the Front Royal Post Office, satisfied with the Chinese Buffet, where I found a hitchhiker from millionaire baby boomers with kind words!
5/11/08 16 miles from Elkwallow Wayside to Tom Floyd wayside
(5/10 was not worthy of a journal entry, but the 22 miles from Rock Spring Hut to Elkwallow wayside were a small chapter in today’s triumph)
As much as I have rehearsed over and over in my mind what I would write tonight, still the words slip away when I am given the chance to finally express myself. However, I can begin with my current situation to shed light on feelings past. Currently I am sitting in the Tom Floyd Wayside, at 4 PM, listening to the violent intensity of a thunderstorm rage outside. At 2PM I arrived. Between 10 AM and 2 PM I was ferociously covering ground, racing through the 10 miles of terrain that separates these last two shelters, literally outrunning the storm. My pace only quickened as I watched the dense layer of fog descend on the ridge, and felt the bitter chill of westerly winds growing. And just 3 and a half hours before that, at 6:30 AM, I woke up in my hammock, a curiously early hour for me to start my day, but one that fate had it done to deliver me from the storm.
Anyway, the greatest triumph of the day was walking out of the Shenandoah National Park, knowing that I had conquered 150 more miles of distance between here and Katahdin. The ecstasy I feel when seeing the boundary of any section – whether it is a state line, highway, or forest gateway – is a surge of pride that I can hardly imagine the glory of seeing the sign at the Northern end.
Upon completion, though, I think that the Shenandoahs are hardly worth the visit of a hiker’s feet. The National Park was actually formed around the highway that meanders North to South, Skyline Drive, and is structured to provide tourists with astonishing vistas and glimpses of wildlife all from the secure convenience of their car seats. The AT, however, winds along the lower shoulder of the road for most of its distance in the park, shielded from any spectacular sights, but in a comfortable range to constantly hear traffic. However, several times the trail intersects the asphalt on scenic overlooks, where hikers can have the privilege of begging food from tourists. Otherwise, it winds its way through a corridor of brush devoid of much wildlife, which has all gone to frolic in traffic or also beg for food.
Now I am only relieved to be in a shelter, proud to have finished the Shenandoahs, and excited to step onto new ground. I finally decided I would go to the Trail Days festival next weekend, since I have become somewhat of a hiking rogue at my pace. It’s been a week since I’ve seen thru-hikers my age. Until more pages, good night.
5/9/08 12 miles to Rock Spring Hut
Today has been a leisurely celebration of my two month achievement on the Appalachian Trail. For the first time in what seems like weeks I chose a relaxed pace to reach the Big Meadows campstore for lunch, where I encountered Whiplash and Applecore, and carved away the rest of my afternoon in the company of Bill and Jesse of the AsaDachi clan, who were shuttled north to provide trail magic in the company of Jesse’s step-dad. For once my muscles and mind do not feel fatigued.
5/8/08 21 miles to Bearfence Hut
These 20 miles days are exhausting both my mind and body, and I feel that tomorrow I am due for some true relaxation, maybe only 12 miles. However, I am certainly honing my abilities of concentration, and can now easily walk 9 miles in a meditative state.
I stopped at the Lewis Mountain Campground store to resupply and indulge, and I am grateful all these wayside points exist in the Shenandoahs. Also, I did not wear socks today and it was great success.
5/7/08 25 miles to Pinefield Shelter
Reporting for yesterday is practically unnecessary and would be both full and pretentious, since the hiking kind of sucked. I walked 26 miles from Rock’s Gap to Calf Mountain Shelter, on bleak Rocky terrain devoid of company. But in order to feel the sweet sensation of hiking I have to swallow the bitter days as well. I did enjoy staying at the Dutch Haus, which was the closest feeling to home I have had.
Today I intended to take an easy day to Blackrock shelter, until the Park Service intervened. After walking 13 miles in arid heat without finding water, the Park Rangers shuttled me around the shelter where I could have found both rest and hydration. Since there was a controlled burn in place they insisted on shuttling me for my safety. “Do I have a choice?” “No,” the Ranger replied. “Is the Loft Mountain Campstore (where I intended to resupply) open?” “Not yet.” “Is there water where you’re taking me?” “No, but there is about a mile away,” he replied in an aloof, not-my-problem tone as he drove away. The Park Ranger in the parking lot greeted me with a cordial “I hope you have a poncho for tonight.”
Foolish government agents, they have underestimated the thru-hiker’s power!
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