From the top

Katahdin, Part III

After hours of lingering and reminiscing, the forces of nature finally decided to evict us from the mountain top. Katahdin is often closed to hiking due to its notoriously violent weather, and because it is close to a death trap to be caught 2.5 miles above treeline in storms. I experienced the source of the fear yesterday, as thunderstorms enclosed the mountain. We scrambled as quickly down slick rocks as we could, but sharp hail and lightning descended on the peaks. I was sure that nothing was closer to a vision of the apocalypse than the summit then. Practically falling down the same rocks I crawled up, I knew that the ending to this journey would not be pretty. As I passed people crouched in chasms and huddled behind rocks, I thought that my life would end in a lightning bolt on Katahdin. At least I would have finished the trail in time to leave it. However, Trill and I made it back safely, enduring probably the worst weather and greatest rush of adrenaline on this entire journey.

Katahdin, Part II

Today I awoke with the normal spur to routine which has controlled me for the last five months. I pick up my feet and walk. I was unintimidated by the fear that surrounds my last climb, overwhelmed instead with the feelings of invincibility and pride. After several hours, however, I realized that even my stamina was being chipped away by the legendary ascent. The mountain is known as a Monadnock- a steep upthrust of granite, rising sharply from all the earth below. For the 2.5 miles above treeline, I followed an utterly rugged and relentless path up boulders, scrambling up rocks mightier than any creation of mankind. The climb taxed my mind and body, but I could feel the gravity of the summit pulling me higher, and I only began to accelerate up the steep rocks. I felt butterflies in my stomach at the first glimpse of the sign atop the peak- a moment I had imagined every day and night for almost five months.
The mountain is controlling- it is the dominant thought of many steps and many minutes, through joy and sorrow it carried me through this trail. I had no premeditated ideas of how I would react, I could only feel the smile on my face coming up the side of the mountain. But when I reached the top, I touched the sign and cried instantly. In the midst of a crowd of day hikers and baffled tourists, I sat down on the rocks and cried. It was perhaps the most glorious moment of the last five months. I lingered on the summit with the only other thru-hiker within days around, my friend Trill, as we absorbed every view and soaked up the elation. As Trill says, "This trail will change your fucking life. Every step north you take, you are a different person. The farther north you are, the harder it is to explain to people who you are."

Katahdin, the prelude

A mountain only fit for a 2,000 mile climax and well-tempered minds and legs, Katahdin is the Northern terminus of the Appalachian Trail. It is the whitest whale of the seas, a 5,268 foot peak looming above all around it. Hikers eager to finish their months of torment and joy are confronted with a 4,000 foot climb over 5.2 miles, easily the most difficult single ascent on the entire path. It is bizarre and possessive- dominating the horizon in a mass of granite that shadows all around it. There is no mountain which rivals it in peril or glory, it is the mightiest peak.

photos from the White Mountains

Crossing the Kennebec River

Pierce Pond Lean-To

2000 mile mark

Before and During the Wilderness

7/16 5.3 whole miles to Horn Pond Lean-to

The journey is nearing an end, which means so is my opportunity to enjoy this lifestyle. I purposefully suppressed my urge to trudge on, and chose instead to savor this pretty day on a pond, with Southbounders "Nocar," "Stretch," and Tommy.

7/17 17.5 miles to West Carry Pond Lean-to

The day is not yet over, but I am confident at this point that there can only be a peaceful resolution. The lessening intensity of the terrain as well as my ecstasy for the finish have subdued my frantic pace. The weather is ideal, and I am camped in the midst of natural beauty that most Americans spend their lives trying to capture and civilize. The spirit of the wilderness is still very alive in Maine, and it lives in me as well as anyone else who treads its ground. I am reading The Places in Between, and I am walking through a parallel universe to Rory, except without the threat of gun-toting Afghans, and with the beauty of peaks and ponds.

7/18 19.5 miles to Pleasant Pond Lean-to

Things aren't as pleasant as advertised here at Pleasant Pond. Dodger, Longstep and I are here representing the Northbound crowd, and we have met Abby, the Southbounder, and three weathered geezers, all packed into this minute rustic Maine shelter. The highlights of today's excursion include tramping through deathly bogs, and crossing the Kennebec River- the most formidable water body on the trail. The ferryman was confident that if I would of attempted fording the river I surely would have drowned. I'm glad I'm still alive.

7/19 14 miles to Moxie Bald Lean-to

I used today for convincing myself of the necessity of liesure: spending many hours reading, eating, swimming in ponds, lounging on summits, or engaging in activity commonly dismissed by puritans. Afterall, the journey is almost over- tomorrow I reach the last town, Monson. All southbounders should fear my power.

7/23 20.6 miles to Carl Newhall Lean-to

Yesterday was an intense day. So was today. And so will be the next four days. It is an unfortunate way to end this glorious journey, but how else can I cope with 100 oppressive miles, and enough food weight to break my back.
Perhaps this is the crucible of hiking- teasing myself with food that I must frugally ration, battling the savage trail in Maine, rushing over peaks to beat section hikers and infidel Southbounders to the cramped shelters.
But all the toil is not without humor. I am elated to be so close to Katahdin, and to have Trill's company and ecclectic stories in these last miles. He at 30 blueberries at once- "the chronic," he claims.

7/24 18.9 miles to Cooper Falls Lean-to

It's been a cold, windy and rainy day, but I wouldn't call it miserable. I'm too close to the end to be miserable.
The barren landscape of worn rocks, frail brush and sheets of mist and fog atop White Cap Mountain looked like what I imagine the apocalypse to be. However, the rest of the day involved rolling woodlands and glittering ponds. Trill is still by my side, telling the goofiest stories that split my sides with laughters. Dinner is ready- one of the last suppers, one of the last opportunities to savor dehydrated food.

7/25 21.5 miles to Wadleigh Stream Lean-to

Without exaggeration, today truthfully featured the worst insect infestation I have experienced yet. Luckily, my insect suit kept me invulnerable and safe in my strides. I hope I will never hate a human with as much passion and vengeance with which I hate mosquitoes. Even when I am completely covered they find the patches of skin from which they can extract blood. Ironically, I just paused to pull one's legs off. You can't have my blood, greedy vessels of destruction.
Otherwise it's been another sentimental, glorious day in Maine. Plenty of scenic lakes added new color to the wilderness, and I met a yo-yo, Brian, who has the typical stony stoicism of someone who has hiked his soul out.

7/25 19.5 miles to Hurd Brook Lean-to

No matter how I sing my thoughts,
or how I twist my tongue,
I can't rephrase these steps of mine
to tunes that can be sung. 

And every hour that passes by
beyond the reach of time,
can't be portrayed again
by any thrust of rhyme.

Waking to a pressing urge
to lift my feet and walk,
and fighting day until the dark,
are not for common talk.

And many times I've cried and fought
and fiercely tried to quit,
but many more I've yelled aloud
and boldly stuck with it.

This life of mine is more than words 

but only simple things,
more than only frigid nights

and demons borne with wings. 

I leave more than one place or friend,

but a true entire life,
and miles of sun and happenstance
and days of storm and strife.

Well all those times come crashing down 

this one last lofty peak
but have I or have I not
found the truth I seek?

The Wilderness

Here's the truth of the matter: the journey is almost over. The feelings I have I cannot easily describe to others, who are usually so eager to extract some sort of revelation or truth out of my 2,176 mile hike. The best I can do is tell them that this feels like the last week of high school; all my sentiments and experiences seemed warped by time, and what was so recent seems like a lifetime ago- but still, that is not an accurate comparison. A journey like this can only be known like a work of art- something that we can describe passionately to others, but can really only be understood by experiencing it for ourselves. So I can only describe for you what it feels like, being here in Maine, 114 miles away from the finish. It feels like many frigid nights, days with snow underfoot, warm hostels, copious quantities of hot food, scarce rations of cold food, American towns too small for maps, friendships through triumph and sadness, physical taxation, the glory of peaks, the misery of every type of thunderstorm, the oppressive summer heat, paranoia of insects, and the great simplicity of only living with less than 30 lbs. of possessions.
Still, things aren't over yet. A friend of mine from high school, Will Davis, picked me up from Monson and has let me stay and recover at his house before heading into the 100-mile Wilderness- the last crucible. In many ways it is the culmination of a Northbound hike- 100 miles of untamed Maine backcountry- untouched by roads, and still in the hands of the forest's will. The last fourteen miles include the climb of Katahdin, the highest peak in Maine and the magical Mountain Deity. Maybe I will have some revelation for you then.

7/9-7/14/08 to Stratton, Maine

Today, 7/22/08, Michael is near Monson, Maine with only 114 miles to go, planning to finish around 7/28 or so.  Below are the journal entries he recently mailed home...always a little out of sync, about a week or so behind.

7/14/08 18 miles to Spaulding Mountain Lean-To

Bob O’Brien treated me really well in Rangeley, Maine. Unfortunately his kind image does not represent the trail in Maine. Sometime today I realized I had left the Appalachian Trail and accidentally wondered onto the National Scenic Mud Pit, and it ironically follows the same course. However, I saw my first moose today, which redeemed some of my bitterness.

7/12/08 13 miles to Bemis Mountain Lean-To

The prospect of Katahdin at this point is tantalizing: so near, yet still hidden by the horizon, still only a rumor. Many times a day other hikers assure me that I am almost done, which is hard to accept when trudging over this steep, sawtooth terrain. All I can do in the mean time is rest, eat and savor the miles.

7/11/08  21 miles to Hall Mountain Shelter

Maine is deceptive with its array of terrain. Yesterday’s hike had me throwing bitter curses at the wind. Today however, was ideal for 21 miles. I still feel smashed as a black fly, but triumphant in my Northbound campaign for today.   I happened to encounter a band of insecure tweenage girls at camp and their counselors, exploring the great outdoors. Ironically, one counselor thru-hiked in 1999 and was sympathetic and kind enough to offer me their extra food before I could even attempt my Yogi technique. The girls all giggled! Tonight I am staying with a geezer named Poz who is intent on telling me intricate stories even as I am writing. I’m trying just to nod and say “yeah.”

7/10/08 15 miles to Speek Pond Shelter

Perhaps “Mahoosic” is the Indian greeting for “a brutal ass-kicking terrain.” Today’s hike included the Mahoosic Notch, the Mahoosic Arm and countless other knee crippling climbs, comprising easily the hardest 15 miles on the trail which I‘ve yet done. Gale force winds, stronger than anything I’ve experienced on any peak or through any storm, did not help either.   However, I am in Maine, which is ample cause for joyous celeration. I see Southbounders regularly at this point, all of whom are delighted to hear my veteran tales and seasoned advice.

 7/9/08  12 miles to Gentian Pond Shelter

After a soothing stay amongst the company of campground residents and visitor in Gorham, New Hampshire, I felt the gravity of Maine towing me to the border. Unfortunately my 1:00pm start and afternoon thunderstorms hampered my victory march.  So I have settled for this shelter, only 4 miles from Maine, with the company of eager Southbounders. It is practically a flashback to my early days on the trail. Hot Springs, NC is as far from Springer as we are from Katahdin now. What a time for reflection. I started my college reading assignment this evening. Ironically the narrator is undertaking the same feat I am, except in the desolate warring country of Afghanistan.

The last week of school

Kurt Vonnegut said, "So it goes." Tupac said, "That's just the way it is." Only 114 miles left.

Back on Squam Lake!

Captains Paul, Michael and Ryan

Squam Lake

Kayaking on Squam Lake

Working on the Swap Walk 

White Mountain photos

Ishmael on top of the world.. at least the White Mountains!

7/4--7/8/08 to Gorham, NH

7/8/08  16 miles to White Birches Hostel Gorham, New Hampshire

Like any challenge, the White Mountains have been just as rewarding as they were challenging. Summitting the mightiest peaks in the Northeast, braving the glut of tourists, maneuvering my way through the grip of a domineering Mountain Club, and finding my way to the glorious boundary of the final state were all part of the Whites’ endeavor.  Just as it is difficult to see the forest from the trees, or the universe from one world, the Appalachian Trail cannot be fathomed from one mile. But after my four months of adventures and now stumbling into a new crowd altogether—the Southbounders, I realize what a magical trip this has been!

7/7/08  11.7 miles to Carter Notch Hut

Today fell to the leisurely side, but after my aggravating voyages through rough climbs and mobs of tourists, I feel justified in relaxing. Plus, with the last state in sight, literally and figuratively and the miles quickly disappearing, I know it is time to savor the end. I earned work-for-stay at the northernmost hut, Carter Notch, and their kind treatment helped redeem my pessimistic view of the New Hampshire huts. 

7/6/08 15 miles to Osgood Tentside

Trekking through the Presidentals (of the White Mountains) requires conquering both the jagged cliffs as well as the pampered mobs of tourists. The crew at Mizpah helped me begin the day with a sumptuous breakfast—giving me the adequate energy to overtake the yuppies summitting the magnificent peaks today. I was constantly overwhelmed with the sheer volume of tourists, especially at Mount Washington, where I had to stand in line to reach the summit! I wanted to throw up on the day hikers.  In addition to my social struggles, I was rejected from Madison Spring Hut because the crew claimed that three thru-hikers had already taken the work-for-stay positions. It’s a little disheartening to get shunted to the ridgeline in the evening, to rush down the rocks only to find the shelter of the treeline. These woods are my home, and I have nowhere to stay when the affluent tourists have a monopoly on the mountains.  Luckily I found a disgruntled hiker named Derrick here at the tentsite just as pissed as I am. 

7/5/08  21 miles to Mizpah Spring Hut

The demons of the mountains did not punish me as hard as in the past few days and I was fresh enough from my plush stay last night to conquer more Whites, including a 3000 foot climb. The mountains are both plush and rugged, civilized and untamed, devoid of warmth and disgustingly crowded. Tonight is my second night at a hut, and each time has given me only a glimpse of the pampered and insecure who move their comforts to remote places. It’s a distracting way to view this beautiful state, but hopefully I won’t miss it in the wide wilderness ahead. 

7/4/08  13 miles to Galehead Hut

The volatile adventure through the Whites continues after two days of leisure at Squam Lake and a day of conquest again on the rocks. Brett rescued me from Franconia Notch two days ago, to return to the only place on the trail I can call home—Squam Lake, New Hampshire. I spent one day meandering around Plymouth, NH and the next reliving old times with old friends. It was almost more than fate that Paul and Ryan were in town with me, so Brett ironically chartered us to repair a spot on the swampwalk we built last fall—toil I never thought I would return to. But nothing could spoil a beautiful boat ride on Golden Pond and free pizza afterwards. The sight of all of my friends—Brett, Paul, Ryan and Sarah, happy and at peace, gave me new inspiration for hiking. This was certainly one lucky thing since the mere thirteen miles of hiking today wore me into the rugged ground. But the evening was saved when I met Kirty Harry and LT at the hut and received good food from the kind crew of ladies at the hut. 

Photos from ?NY, Connecticut

    

6/20-7/2/08 to Squam Lake, New Hampshire

7/2/08  18 miles to Plymouth, New Hampshire  (Brett Durham’s house)

Fate has repaid my misery with wonderful rewards and now that I am in the company of old friends it is difficult to even remember the toil of the last few days. Thoughts of seeing my old New Hampshire home kept my feet moving, led me through swamps, clouds of insects and over ridgelines. I had promised my friend Brett to meet at a highway crossing by evening. This entailed walking 18 miles within 12 hours, a seemingly simple plan. But no matter how much I anticipated my timing or how fiercely I climbed, I had intense difficulty reaching the road; ultimately arriving just in time.

Though the Whites have been beautiful, the relentless, steep grade and jagged rocky landscape has slowed my pace drastically. Descending 3000 feet of slick rock faces or creek beds leaves my knees feeling like exploding, and then ascending the 3000 feet again zaps the strength that I have left.  But all is well that ends well, and this is just the end of one chapter. I am happy to see that all of my friends here are thriving in the woods’ life. Brett still works for an environmental non-profit organization. Paul found a job with the Forest Service working with my old boss Ryan, who is getting married to Sarah, an old thru-hiker, this August. Everything is well in New Hampshire! 

6/30/08  15.4 miles to Beaver Brook Shelter

Karma reaps its toll again. I feel like all of the frustrating and painful toil I have done today will surely equate to some bountiful glory, hopefully tomorrow things will be sweet with my old New Hampshire friends. I hiked an additional six miles today, confused by the chaotic jumble of trails. Mount Moosilaukee was a rewarding introduction to the White Mountains—clear views and a majestic atmosphere. Tonight LT, Dirty Harry and I are combating flies and telling stories. 

6/29/08  19.3 miles Ore Hill Shelter

The challenge of New Hampshire has begun. Gone are the days of tranquil rolling ridges and now begin the rigorous combat climbs. Today included three major elevation gains: Smarts Mountain, Mount Cube and Ore Hill. Each one is a fiend to hikers. Today was also pivotal in that I met me first Southbounder, “Grace.” It is a good omen for what is north. Ryan and Sarah (friends I worked with on Squam Lake in Fall 2007) left me a note at a trailhead, telling me they tried to find me, but hopes of contact were futile.  But I can look forward to seeing old friends very soon.

6/28/08  16 miles to Trapper John Shelter  (near Hanover, New Hampshire)

I have been bound to Dartmouth for two days now, ironically. Last night I stayed in the house of Mary Friedman, another native of Winston-Salem and a Dartmouth student. It was both relaxing and indulgent to be in such a plush city.  However, tonight I ran into the Dartmouth sophomore student outing trip. This would have been enjoyable if by cruel cosmic irony there weren’t thunderstorms that forced 12 of us into a 6-person shelter. It certainly has been a great impetus for telling stories.

6/27/08  20 miles to Happy Hill  Shelter

Thus it is time for my final reflections on Vermont, this wild 12^th state. The long Trail and all of its history, challenges and travelers was an amazing connection to the land, and I have enjoyed all the crazy Vermonsters along the way. Recently the AT has been tedious and difficult, but hopefully I can forget the hardships and only carry the sweet memories of campfires into the future. Last night Trill, Allgood, Footloose, Pebble, Sunnyside and I had an epic thru-hiking night, a great opportunity to reminisce on the adventure thus far. The rain and pain I have tolerated well, but to stay sane now I say goodbye Green Mountains and hello to the Whites.

6/24/08  19^th birthday!

My birthday was sort of mundane. My most memorable celebration was simply gorging myself.

6/23/08 17 miles to Clarendon Shelter

There certainly need to be times of atonement and recovery after any challenge. Even though yesterday was dismal, my friend, Footloose, with whom I’ve been staying for three nights, has brought me back to good spirits. His peace, as well as the quirky wisdom from a trail geezer whose name I’ve already forgotten, have helped recover my ease. That and we had a good fire and whiskey tonight, practically early birthday presents.

6/22/08  19.3 miles to Big Branch Shelter

I felt unstoppable today marching through three thunderstorms, but crippled when I unpacked my bag and found my sleeping bag soaked.

6/21/08  14.7 miles to Spruce Peak Shelter

The family reunion was both successful and luxurious. It was more than a pleasant surprise to be transported instantly from an insect-ridden dirt path to a plush set of sheets in a Bed and Breakfast with sickening endless amounts of food.  This encounter with all my family left me with high spirits, reborn in my hiker capabilities. Today was an easy day. I was certainly willing to accept the delay for breakfast at the Snow Goose Inn.  Some of the greatest things in life aren’t things.  

6/20/08  21 miles to Stratton Road Family Reunion (near Bennington, Vermont)

Life in the placid and timeless wilderness has been more chaotic for me recently than it should I have not yet fully escaped from the constraints of schedules and transient goals, but am trying to steer away from moving to a place or purpose and just begin walking.  In Dalton, Massachusetts, I stayed at the legendary “Birdcage,” the highly trafficked home of Rob Bird, one of the legendary trail icons on the AT who gives away his resources to those in need without discrimination. The next day I crossed Mt. Greylock, the mighty crowning peak of Massachusetts and later entered the wide wilderness of Vermont.  I feel the old thrill of the northern mountains, something that can only be captured in the smell of fir trees, the chill of morning fog and the steep stacks of rocks up the sides of mountains. Soon I will leave the shelter to meet my family at a road crossing. Hopefully they will be there or I will be stranded!

Home for a While

Maybe all my toil and misery was invested wisely with Karma, because now I am happily in my old New Hampshire hood, taking days off with my old friends. In addition to high times and plethoras of food I am able to visit my old home on Squam Lake, perhaps the only place on this journey that I can call a home. It's great to see all my friends have survived the winter and prospered since; working through and enjoying the summer.
The White Mountains are exactly as I remember: beautiful and exruciatingly hard. Only 380 miles left!

6/12-6/16/08 to Dalton, Mass

6/16/08  17 miles to Kay Wood Shelter, 3 more to Dalton, Mass.

The day is not yet done, but the monstrous thunderstorm that has overtaken the skies provided a good impetus to rest awhile at this convenient shelter. Maybe it was the coffee and early start I had this morning, but thus far time has really slipped away in effortless labor. Perhaps this cool weather is making things so easy or perhaps I’m a crazy child of nature!

6/15/08 28 miles to Upper Goose Pond Cabin (Berkshire county, Massachusetts)

What a change in fortune this day has been. After waking up at 4:00am from my fitful greenhouse shelter sleep, I quickly scrambled into the world of new obstacles and rewards. Before noon I had already completed 12 miles and felt confident in the prospect of being here tonight. However, Massachusetts has certainly doled out its punishment with insects. The mosquitoes in this region are so bad that I can only hope to outrun and outmaneuver them as my chance for not being devoured. Hiking has become frantic—I cannot stop to pee, drink or even adjust my load without being swarmed!  My strategy has been reaching each road crossing in an unbroken movement, because the insects cannot reach me there. By the end of the day I was saturated with sweat, DEET, Goldbond powder and bug carcasses as well as past-exhaustion.

But reaching this cabin, a free service of the Massachusetts AMC (Appalachian Mountain Club) has restored all efforts. New company—Pickle and Garlic—and old friends, Longstep and Sleepwallker—have certainly restored most of my energy. I felt adventurous to take a moonlight swim in Goose Pond and now I can sleep easily with the luxury of screened windows.  On to Dalton, MA tomorrow.  

6/14/08  16.8 miles  Disarrayed empty greenhouse by the CornCrib Farmstand on the side of Route 7 (near Sheffield, MA)

Truly this is the most fitting image of a bum I have yet attained. I practically outran a lurching thunderstorm to make it here, only to find the farmer’s market closed. But tired after nearly 17 miles of rigorous climbing and battling families of mosquitoes, in addition to seeing a black horizon ready to storm, I realized this would be home for the night. 

6/13/08  18.1 miles to Brassie Brook Lean-to (Northwest corner of Connecticut)

No complaints for this tranquil day. I was blessed with both moderate terrain and moderate weather. I wish I could resolve this entry with more clearance, but it has to be abrupt or the mosquitoes will eat me. 

6/12/08  19.5 miles to Sharon Mountain Campsite

Once again I have neglected my precious inner voice but fortunately this time it was not a product of stress, but leisure. In Kent, Connecticut, I stayed with my friend Jillian Sawyer and her family. In fact, I stayed two nights, accepting their wonderful hospitality and enticing company. The image that best depicts my voyage back to society is navigating White Plains, NY at the direction of Herman Furman, Jill’s blind friend, to recover his guitar from a music shop.  It truly cannot earn its traumatic justice in my journal alone, because it was such an irreplaceable journey. Herman is a very brave man and Jill is and has always been a mystic spirit.

To bring the final atonement to the universe, the heat wave finally expired, in one final violent storm. Only the two tornados I have lived through could surpass this storm in intensity. But after finishing its course, the fireflies came out to dance again, to let us know that everything is fine. 

Second to last

Goodbye green mountains, goodbye relentless hills and wicked thunderstorms. Today is the threshold of a great new white horizon, today is my day crossing the free state. 

5/29-6/10/08 to Kent, Connecticut

Posted by Mom from Michael's (Ishmael) handwritten journal entries mailed home:

6/10/08  17 miles to Kent, Connecticut

I will use this lull in activity to repay my cheated journal. Unfortunately if has been so stuffy and oppressively hot recently that life has been like muffins in an oven—a very humid oven rampant with insects.  Those muffins are also required to climb an average of 18 miles of hills everyday. As a muffin, I know my body is rapidly adapting, because I am sweating and drinking more than ever before. On the brighter side of life, I am now a mile away from Kent, where hopefully I can visit my friend, Jillian Sawyer.

6/8/08  19.5 miles RPH Shelter (across the Hudson River, NY)

This has been another day subject to the weather. Even before sunrise I felt the oppressive heat descending on me. However I was grateful to slaughter many miles before noon, so I could bathe in the tourist paradise at Canopus Lack. Highlighs of the afternoon include seeing a rattlesnake threaten me closer than three feet and walking through a refreshing thunderstorm. The peaceful, conclusion happened when Young and Dumb, ’07 Northbound hikers left hordes of trail magic at the shelter. Life is nice.

6/7/08 15.6 miles to Graymoor Spiritual Center (near Peekskill, New York)

Some days are doomed from the daybreak like when I walked outside this morning and felt the sweltering heat like the Everglades. Even walking downhill I was coated in a film of sweat, so going up the steep rocks of Bear Mountain practically dehydrated me altogether. But aside from the heat, there was something I encountered today that was completely unexpected. No one told me that Bear Mountain State Park was the relocated ethnic quarters of Brooklyn. The trail meandered right through flocks of every religion and ethnicity possible in the woods. There were times when I practically had to compete with the line for the swimming pool to walk on the AT.  Most of the people, I assume had no idead the significance of this path. The roles instantly changed: they were the invaders to my land, and I was the native. 

6/6/08 19.6 miles  William Brien Shelter (28 miles into New York)

The Empire State has poised its challenges and revealed its marvels ever since the southern boundary. It feels as though I’ve instantly been shrunk to hobbit size, running through a rampant forest, alive and powerful. The terrain is awesome but daunting, towering over us at every angle. With today’s rugged hiking, Start, Longstep, Sleepwalker, Railroad King and I all made the pilgrimage to Bellvale Creamery for homemade ice cream.  Today we were rewarded with trail magic from Daddy-O, the most inspiring and inspired trail angel.

6/3/08  18 miles to Secret Shelter

Unfortunately, I have been curt and negligent about recording my thoughts recently, but these days I truly have faced fatigue powerful enough to suppress my thoughts. Feelings aside, I had a refreshing stay at the Delaware Water Gap Hostel and have since been hiking with Starfi, a chipper guy connected both to the word of god and to the grooviness of being outdoors. The trail in New Jersey certainly escapes the stereotypical image of the Garden State. I have yet to see a sooty wasteland, and in fact, it’s quite beautiful here. Unfortunately the insects are voracious. I hear the mosquito is New Jersey’s State Bird! 

6/1/08  21 miles Gren Anderson Shelter   Sussex, New Jersey

Very fatigued, both mentally and physically!  Neither crossing the Pennsylvania border into New Jersey nor receiving the hospitality of the Delaware Water Gap Church Hostel raised my strength. New Jersey is surprisingly beautiful but I will need more to brighten my spirits. I’m seriously considering a zero mile day in Vernon, NJ. 

            Enlarge your perspective. Be patient, be real.

5/30/08  21 miles around Palmerton, PA

Today has been a peculiar day, one whose twists I can only attribute to the omnipotent grip of fate. This morning, after braving the sweltering heat and rocky passages, I parted with Start and the Tennessee Twins to hitch into Palmerton—a difficult task but with its rewards. After soliciting the help of local launderers to guard my property, I devoured a monstrous calzone and left town with another lucky hitch, satisfied with clean clothes and calories. Yet I could not have picked a more tortuous day to climb the zinc mine from Lehigh Gap. The ascent is practically a mile of treeless, shadeless boulders on steep rocks.  I had only the zinc factories to thank, and the oppressive cloudless sun to appreciate for walking across the oven. After 10 miles without a water source, I luckily stumbled on Delps Spring, where I drank a liter on site. After that, I was steeled to reach the next shelter which plunged me into a rocky night hike. However, about three miles inward, I ran into a man walking his dog, oddly at 9pm, who invited me to stay at this house where he frequently hosts hikers in the garage.  Sure enough, his service is listed in the AT Guidebook, so I stepped over my suspicions and set up here at his garage. He is certainly astray in his wilderness views: an avid slackpacker, a gear buff, an Earl Schaffer servant. Hopefully I can reach Delaware Water Gap tomorrow night.

Ready for fresh Cheese

Here I am, whittling away another piece of infinitessimal time at the Dalton Public Library. The Vermont border is just North of here, and I am excited to step into the savage Northern terrain. Today I am taking a day off; however, because even hikers have to heal after these intense summer days and endless rocky peaks.

Peace After the Storm

Peace was restored to the galaxy this Tuesday after the wave of heat that has plagued the Northeast swept over in a final showdown. I am grateful for my friend Jillian Sawyer's hospitality, who let me stay with her in Kent, CT, and watch the onslaught from behind windows. Many trees are down and looks like warfare hit the forests, but luckily I was being pampered with time off while my friends suffered. Now I am in Salisbury, CT, close to finishing one more state!

photos from ?Pennsylvania

Thunderstorming through the States

The mosquito is the state bird of New Jersey

5/23-5/29/08 still in Pennsylvania

5/29/08   26.5 miles to Bake Oven Knob Shelter

Today I bruised my feet on some relentlessly rocky terrain. I earned my rest here at the Bake Oven lounge now that I found Philadelphia’s jazz station on my radio.  Instantly I banished the eerie aura of this tiny antique shelter and found some company with the captains of swing. My new friends from today include Start and the Tennessee Twins: Pseudo and Two Shoes.  Aha!  They just arrived.

5/28/08  6 miles to Windsor Furnace Shelter

It’s funny what a fickle thing fortune can be. Immediately after stepping into Port Clinton last night, I was offered a ride into the shopping center at Hamburg, PA, saving me a desolate highway walk. I was even driven back by my trail angel, Ana May, to the Pavilion, a spacious shelter and park in town that allows free camping. There I met two groovy South-bounders, Kofia and Halfstride. I consumed a whole range of good dairy products and drifted to sleep gently in my hammock.  This morning however, Ana May wasn’t home. The Port Clinton Hotel, which offers showers, didn’t open until 11am and only the local outfitter offered a ride to Hamburg—for $20—too steep for a 2-mile drive.

But instantly again my luck shifted… the Cabela’s shuttle picked me up from the street, almost collided with my trail angel friend, Ana May.  She offered me her phone later in the afternoon. Wow, what a change in fate. Hopefully I can clean my moldy laundry in Palmerton to complete my blessings.

5/26/08  17.8 miles to 501 Shelter, near Pine Grove, PA

My relationship with Pennsylvania has been an odd and fickle one. Most of today’s hiking was on gentle, beautiful ridges, lined with cushioned dirt. Yet there are tracts that appear spontaneously, littered with towering, jagged rocks. Perhaps someone drove the granite truck up the mountain for an accidental delivery.  Though I have neglected to include it recently, everyday I have seen a sprightly weathered couple on the trail consistently for the last week—hiking in the opposite direction. After our first encounter I began to wonder how I could pass south-bounders repeatedly. After we began meeting consistently about noontime I had the opportunity to learn that they, Perry and Melinda, thruhiked in ’86 and have since been rambling around scenic trails. Sadly today was my last day meeting them, for they are returning home to Oregon to resume an easy life.

Anyway, tonight I am at the legendary 501 Shelter, a pilgrimage for thru-hikers for its proximity to an Italian restaurant that actually delivers here.  Sadly, it is Memorial Day and the delivery is unavailable. Chris and Andrew, the flip-floppers, are here to share my disappointment. I compensated simply by eating two dinners tonight.

5/25/08  17.8 miles Rausch Gap Shelter 

I feel surprisingly fatigues after just easy terrain and rolling ridges today. I can only attribute the effect to either Lyme Disease, which I don’t have or to a caloric deficit, which I do have. I have regretted passing by the half-gallon ice cream challenge recently. In Port Clinton, I will definitely conquer the half-gallon, maybe even twice!

5/24/08 15.4 miles to Peters Mountain Shelter

I am slowly breaking away from the gravity of towns, evident from my swift passage through Duncannon, PA. I stopped at the Doyle Hotel, where I was able to completely resupply by the generosity of Pat and Vicky, the landowners. The building itself is very impressive, the centerpiece of the pioneer atmosphere in Duncannon. I only spent $2 in the city, but I regret not buying a pint of ice cream now that I’m deep in the woods. Since it is Memorial Day Weekend, I am sharing the shelter with several section-hikers, as well as two flip-floppers, Andrew and Matt, who are coincidentally from Winston-Salem. Hunger is currently my dominating instinct.

5/23/08  22 miles to Cove Mountain Shelter

A day that began lightheartedly in the quaint city of Boiling Springs was quickly consumed by the lovely vortex of the woods.  After waiting for my mail and eating a quart of yogurt, I was not able to start hiking until 11:00am. The terrain of the Cumberland Valley is gentle and placid farmland, which makes for a deceptive challenge. Though it is flat, the ground is in constant exposure to the sun’s oppressive rays, which easily tired me. But only after reentering the ridgeline did I feel the real haunting pulse of the wilderness. It was the inexplicable maddening drive that led me past the company of the first shelter to the uncertainty of the next, which convinced me how far into this journey I am.

Here is what I wrote in the shelter register tonight: “After three nights alone a man really has a better glimpse into the depths of his soul. Once an endeavor has ceased to be a challenge, and after it has culminated with triumph, it becomes an obsession—a maddening gravity that draws us from our minds. Just like Chris McCandless (of Into the Wild fame) we must determine how deep into the woods we can go. Just like Narcissus, we must determine how close to the water we can stand. And just like Ahab, we must know how far into lonely waters we can sail before we lose sight of our soul and our quest consumes us.”

 

photos

5/18/08--5/22/08 W Virginia into Pennsylvania

5/22/08 20 miles to Boiling Springs, PA

I have not been able to adequately express myself recently—both because of my pitiful hand circulation and because of my frantic hiking pace. For the last week it has been both unseasonably cold and rainy. It seems we are in the last throes of winter, rather than in spring. The terrain is so heavily flooded that in many places the trail is altogether submerged, simply a swamp. Luckily, last night I chose to stay at the Ironmaster’s Mansion, a cavernous home converted from a station on the Underground Railroad to a hostel. In keeping with my typical hiking situation, I was alone—the only guest in an enormous mansion. The innkeeper, Ray, gave me the tour of the home’s secret slave labyrinth, which I was glad to have taken despite my sore knees.  My biggest concern however, was solved by the massive kitchen. For a few days previous, I had survived on Ramen and peanut butter and unfortunately arrived in Pine Grove Furnace Park to find the camp store closed. Like a true hiker and Freegan, though I pillaged all of the leftovers to make surprisingly appetizing meals and some of the best pancakes without the use of any measuring device.

Today I tramped over more rocky Pennsylvania ridges, but broke through the treeline to find a valley of farmland at the end. So tonight I am camped near the riverbank under the bridge of Boiling Springs, the closest to a bum that I have ever felt.  Aside from the hiking world, I am grateful to have bought a portable radio at Trail Days. I heard the Brahms Violin Concerto and the Mendelssohn yesterday. It really brightened things up.

5/20/08  20 miles to Rocky Mountain Shelter

The odd thing about my hands is that I lose all control of them in even the slightest cold conditions. Sometimes I feel almost amused and horrified at the same time, to see how comical my plight is. I don’t really appreciate the power of opposable thumbs until I try the tasks of backpacking without them! I can’t cook without sparking a lighter, I can’t eat without holding a spoon, I can’t write without gripping a pen and I’m virtually disabled from using every other zipper, clip or contraption that I carry. Aside from that, however today was a fun day. I am alone again in a shelter—how unnerving. Tomorrow is the true halfway point.

5/19/08  30.6 miles to Devil’s Racecourse Shelter (northwest of Hagerstown, MD)

Perhaps it is because I feel guilty of my sloth at Trail Days, but also it is the logistical convenience that inspired me to do a thirty-mile day. It certainly wasn’t difficult on a beautiful day like this, especially with all sorts of quaint Civil and Revolutionary War monuments to walk through. Regardless, I can feel the excitement towing me into another state: Pennsylvania tomorrow!  On a lighter note, “Crazy Richard’s” is my new favorite brand of peanut butter, a gift from Steve at the ATC.

5/18/08  8 miles to Ed Garvey Shelter in southern Maryland

Trail Days was both invigorating and relaxing, but I feel that finally I have earned a restful night’s sleep. Today, Steve the director of the ATC (Appalachian Trail Conservancy) was kind enough to drive me back north to Harper’s Ferry, WV.  In transit I gained plenty of valuable knowledge about the mechanism that supports the AT. Things are quiet now and I am sharing this spacious shelter with 4 sisters. Tomorrow maybe I can reach Pennsylvania. 

More photos

    Furniture, Free Hugs and Ishmael ~4/9/08

  Ishmael on the trail.

Trail Days... from Mom

From Mom...  On Thursday 5/15, Michael (Ishmael) got a ride from Harper's Ferry, WV where he had proudly reached the half-way point, to Damascus, VA for 4 days of celebrating at the annual Trail Days Festival.  Trail Days is for current hikers, past hikers and hiker-supporters.  It is 4 days for hikers to see old friends, enjoy partying into wee hours of the night, drink too much and talk about gear. "Gear and beer" I didn't realize this when I planned to drive to Damascus to meet Michael for a few days.  His friends teased him before I arrived.  Evidently, inviting your mom to Trail Days is unheard of!  But I survived and didn't even embarrass him.  I camped out in "tent city" with Michael and his friends, although I chose to stay in the "quiet area." 

I was great to see Michael and the respect and honor he is given by other hikers.  He has a reputation for his excellent hiking skills and speed on the trail.  He is one of the youngest on the trail this summer also.  He has become an independent, thoughtful, guardian of the earth. I now know that barring any physical problems, he will finish this journey successfully!  

5/7-5/12/08 to Front Royal, VA

5/12/08  

I am at the Front Royal Post Office, satisfied with the Chinese Buffet, where I found a hitchhiker from millionaire baby boomers with kind words!

5/11/08  16 miles from Elkwallow Wayside to Tom Floyd wayside  

(5/10 was not worthy of a journal entry, but the 22 miles from Rock Spring Hut to Elkwallow wayside were a small chapter in today’s triumph)

               As much as I have rehearsed over and over in my mind what I would write tonight, still the words slip away when I am given the chance to finally express myself.  However, I can begin with my current situation to shed light on feelings past.  Currently I am sitting in the Tom Floyd Wayside, at 4 PM, listening to the violent intensity of a thunderstorm rage outside.  At 2PM I arrived.  Between 10 AM and 2 PM I was ferociously covering ground, racing through the 10 miles of terrain that separates these last two shelters, literally outrunning the storm.  My pace only quickened as I watched the dense layer of fog descend on the ridge, and felt the bitter chill of westerly winds growing.  And just 3 and a half hours before that, at 6:30 AM, I woke up in my hammock, a curiously early hour for me to start my day, but one that fate had it done to deliver me from the storm.

               Anyway, the greatest triumph of the day was walking out of the Shenandoah National Park, knowing that I had conquered 150 more miles of distance between here and Katahdin.  The ecstasy I feel when seeing the boundary of any section – whether it is a state line, highway, or forest gateway – is a surge of pride that I can hardly imagine the glory of seeing the sign at the Northern end.

               Upon completion, though, I think that the Shenandoahs are hardly worth the visit of a hiker’s feet.  The National Park was actually formed around the highway that meanders North to South, Skyline Drive, and is structured to provide tourists with astonishing vistas and glimpses of wildlife all from the secure convenience of their car seats.  The AT, however, winds along the lower shoulder of the road for most of its distance in the park, shielded from any spectacular sights, but in a comfortable range to constantly hear traffic.  However, several times the trail intersects the asphalt on scenic overlooks, where hikers can have the privilege of begging food from tourists.  Otherwise, it winds its way through a corridor of brush devoid of much wildlife, which has all gone to frolic in traffic or also beg for food.

               Now I am only relieved to be in a shelter, proud to have finished the Shenandoahs, and excited to step onto new ground.  I finally decided I would go to the Trail Days festival next weekend, since I have become somewhat of a hiking rogue at my pace.  It’s been a week since I’ve seen thru-hikers my age. Until more pages, good night.

5/9/08  12 miles to Rock Spring Hut

Today has been a leisurely celebration of my two month achievement on the Appalachian Trail.  For the first time in what seems like weeks I chose a relaxed pace to reach the Big Meadows campstore for lunch, where I encountered Whiplash and Applecore, and carved away the rest of my afternoon in the company of Bill and Jesse of the AsaDachi clan, who were shuttled north to provide trail magic in the company of Jesse’s step-dad.  For once my muscles and mind do not feel fatigued.

5/8/08  21 miles to Bearfence Hut

These 20 miles days are exhausting both my mind and body, and I feel that tomorrow I am due for some true relaxation, maybe only 12 miles. However, I am certainly honing my abilities of concentration, and can now easily walk 9 miles in a meditative state.

I stopped at the Lewis Mountain Campground store to resupply and indulge, and I am grateful all these wayside points exist in the Shenandoahs. Also, I did not wear socks today and it was great success.

5/7/08  25 miles to Pinefield Shelter

Reporting for yesterday is practically unnecessary and would be both full and pretentious, since the hiking kind of sucked.  I walked 26 miles from Rock’s Gap to Calf Mountain Shelter, on bleak Rocky terrain devoid of company.  But in order to feel the sweet sensation of hiking I have to swallow the bitter days as well.  I did enjoy staying at the Dutch Haus, which was the closest feeling to home I have had.

Today I intended to take an easy day to Blackrock shelter, until the Park Service intervened.  After walking 13 miles in arid heat without finding water, the Park Rangers shuttled me around the shelter where I could have found both rest and hydration. Since there was a controlled burn in place they insisted on shuttling me for my safety. “Do I have a choice?”  “No,” the Ranger replied. “Is the Loft Mountain Campstore (where I intended to resupply) open?”  “Not yet.”  “Is there water where you’re taking me?”  “No, but there is about a mile away,” he replied in an aloof, not-my-problem tone as he drove away.  The Park Ranger in the parking lot greeted me with a cordial “I hope you have a poncho for tonight.”

Foolish government agents, they have underestimated the thru-hiker’s power!