photos

5/18/08--5/22/08 W Virginia into Pennsylvania

5/22/08 20 miles to Boiling Springs, PA

I have not been able to adequately express myself recently—both because of my pitiful hand circulation and because of my frantic hiking pace. For the last week it has been both unseasonably cold and rainy. It seems we are in the last throes of winter, rather than in spring. The terrain is so heavily flooded that in many places the trail is altogether submerged, simply a swamp. Luckily, last night I chose to stay at the Ironmaster’s Mansion, a cavernous home converted from a station on the Underground Railroad to a hostel. In keeping with my typical hiking situation, I was alone—the only guest in an enormous mansion. The innkeeper, Ray, gave me the tour of the home’s secret slave labyrinth, which I was glad to have taken despite my sore knees.  My biggest concern however, was solved by the massive kitchen. For a few days previous, I had survived on Ramen and peanut butter and unfortunately arrived in Pine Grove Furnace Park to find the camp store closed. Like a true hiker and Freegan, though I pillaged all of the leftovers to make surprisingly appetizing meals and some of the best pancakes without the use of any measuring device.

Today I tramped over more rocky Pennsylvania ridges, but broke through the treeline to find a valley of farmland at the end. So tonight I am camped near the riverbank under the bridge of Boiling Springs, the closest to a bum that I have ever felt.  Aside from the hiking world, I am grateful to have bought a portable radio at Trail Days. I heard the Brahms Violin Concerto and the Mendelssohn yesterday. It really brightened things up.

5/20/08  20 miles to Rocky Mountain Shelter

The odd thing about my hands is that I lose all control of them in even the slightest cold conditions. Sometimes I feel almost amused and horrified at the same time, to see how comical my plight is. I don’t really appreciate the power of opposable thumbs until I try the tasks of backpacking without them! I can’t cook without sparking a lighter, I can’t eat without holding a spoon, I can’t write without gripping a pen and I’m virtually disabled from using every other zipper, clip or contraption that I carry. Aside from that, however today was a fun day. I am alone again in a shelter—how unnerving. Tomorrow is the true halfway point.

5/19/08  30.6 miles to Devil’s Racecourse Shelter (northwest of Hagerstown, MD)

Perhaps it is because I feel guilty of my sloth at Trail Days, but also it is the logistical convenience that inspired me to do a thirty-mile day. It certainly wasn’t difficult on a beautiful day like this, especially with all sorts of quaint Civil and Revolutionary War monuments to walk through. Regardless, I can feel the excitement towing me into another state: Pennsylvania tomorrow!  On a lighter note, “Crazy Richard’s” is my new favorite brand of peanut butter, a gift from Steve at the ATC.

5/18/08  8 miles to Ed Garvey Shelter in southern Maryland

Trail Days was both invigorating and relaxing, but I feel that finally I have earned a restful night’s sleep. Today, Steve the director of the ATC (Appalachian Trail Conservancy) was kind enough to drive me back north to Harper’s Ferry, WV.  In transit I gained plenty of valuable knowledge about the mechanism that supports the AT. Things are quiet now and I am sharing this spacious shelter with 4 sisters. Tomorrow maybe I can reach Pennsylvania. 

More photos

    Furniture, Free Hugs and Ishmael ~4/9/08

  Ishmael on the trail.

Trail Days... from Mom

From Mom...  On Thursday 5/15, Michael (Ishmael) got a ride from Harper's Ferry, WV where he had proudly reached the half-way point, to Damascus, VA for 4 days of celebrating at the annual Trail Days Festival.  Trail Days is for current hikers, past hikers and hiker-supporters.  It is 4 days for hikers to see old friends, enjoy partying into wee hours of the night, drink too much and talk about gear. "Gear and beer" I didn't realize this when I planned to drive to Damascus to meet Michael for a few days.  His friends teased him before I arrived.  Evidently, inviting your mom to Trail Days is unheard of!  But I survived and didn't even embarrass him.  I camped out in "tent city" with Michael and his friends, although I chose to stay in the "quiet area." 

I was great to see Michael and the respect and honor he is given by other hikers.  He has a reputation for his excellent hiking skills and speed on the trail.  He is one of the youngest on the trail this summer also.  He has become an independent, thoughtful, guardian of the earth. I now know that barring any physical problems, he will finish this journey successfully!  

5/7-5/12/08 to Front Royal, VA

5/12/08  

I am at the Front Royal Post Office, satisfied with the Chinese Buffet, where I found a hitchhiker from millionaire baby boomers with kind words!

5/11/08  16 miles from Elkwallow Wayside to Tom Floyd wayside  

(5/10 was not worthy of a journal entry, but the 22 miles from Rock Spring Hut to Elkwallow wayside were a small chapter in today’s triumph)

               As much as I have rehearsed over and over in my mind what I would write tonight, still the words slip away when I am given the chance to finally express myself.  However, I can begin with my current situation to shed light on feelings past.  Currently I am sitting in the Tom Floyd Wayside, at 4 PM, listening to the violent intensity of a thunderstorm rage outside.  At 2PM I arrived.  Between 10 AM and 2 PM I was ferociously covering ground, racing through the 10 miles of terrain that separates these last two shelters, literally outrunning the storm.  My pace only quickened as I watched the dense layer of fog descend on the ridge, and felt the bitter chill of westerly winds growing.  And just 3 and a half hours before that, at 6:30 AM, I woke up in my hammock, a curiously early hour for me to start my day, but one that fate had it done to deliver me from the storm.

               Anyway, the greatest triumph of the day was walking out of the Shenandoah National Park, knowing that I had conquered 150 more miles of distance between here and Katahdin.  The ecstasy I feel when seeing the boundary of any section – whether it is a state line, highway, or forest gateway – is a surge of pride that I can hardly imagine the glory of seeing the sign at the Northern end.

               Upon completion, though, I think that the Shenandoahs are hardly worth the visit of a hiker’s feet.  The National Park was actually formed around the highway that meanders North to South, Skyline Drive, and is structured to provide tourists with astonishing vistas and glimpses of wildlife all from the secure convenience of their car seats.  The AT, however, winds along the lower shoulder of the road for most of its distance in the park, shielded from any spectacular sights, but in a comfortable range to constantly hear traffic.  However, several times the trail intersects the asphalt on scenic overlooks, where hikers can have the privilege of begging food from tourists.  Otherwise, it winds its way through a corridor of brush devoid of much wildlife, which has all gone to frolic in traffic or also beg for food.

               Now I am only relieved to be in a shelter, proud to have finished the Shenandoahs, and excited to step onto new ground.  I finally decided I would go to the Trail Days festival next weekend, since I have become somewhat of a hiking rogue at my pace.  It’s been a week since I’ve seen thru-hikers my age. Until more pages, good night.

5/9/08  12 miles to Rock Spring Hut

Today has been a leisurely celebration of my two month achievement on the Appalachian Trail.  For the first time in what seems like weeks I chose a relaxed pace to reach the Big Meadows campstore for lunch, where I encountered Whiplash and Applecore, and carved away the rest of my afternoon in the company of Bill and Jesse of the AsaDachi clan, who were shuttled north to provide trail magic in the company of Jesse’s step-dad.  For once my muscles and mind do not feel fatigued.

5/8/08  21 miles to Bearfence Hut

These 20 miles days are exhausting both my mind and body, and I feel that tomorrow I am due for some true relaxation, maybe only 12 miles. However, I am certainly honing my abilities of concentration, and can now easily walk 9 miles in a meditative state.

I stopped at the Lewis Mountain Campground store to resupply and indulge, and I am grateful all these wayside points exist in the Shenandoahs. Also, I did not wear socks today and it was great success.

5/7/08  25 miles to Pinefield Shelter

Reporting for yesterday is practically unnecessary and would be both full and pretentious, since the hiking kind of sucked.  I walked 26 miles from Rock’s Gap to Calf Mountain Shelter, on bleak Rocky terrain devoid of company.  But in order to feel the sweet sensation of hiking I have to swallow the bitter days as well.  I did enjoy staying at the Dutch Haus, which was the closest feeling to home I have had.

Today I intended to take an easy day to Blackrock shelter, until the Park Service intervened.  After walking 13 miles in arid heat without finding water, the Park Rangers shuttled me around the shelter where I could have found both rest and hydration. Since there was a controlled burn in place they insisted on shuttling me for my safety. “Do I have a choice?”  “No,” the Ranger replied. “Is the Loft Mountain Campstore (where I intended to resupply) open?”  “Not yet.”  “Is there water where you’re taking me?”  “No, but there is about a mile away,” he replied in an aloof, not-my-problem tone as he drove away.  The Park Ranger in the parking lot greeted me with a cordial “I hope you have a poncho for tonight.”

Foolish government agents, they have underestimated the thru-hiker’s power!

On the other side of Momentum

Today I reached Harper's Ferry, mile 1,011, the traditional halfway point of the Appalachian Trail. Going without a shower or dry clothes for the last 200 miles was certainly a test of my comfort, but the new lens I have for viewing the trail was worth every rugged mile.
Recently, because of flooding in Northern Virginia, I have had to cope with fording creeks, walking through mud, stepping over fallen trees, and swarms of greedy insects- but they cannot have my blood! Ironically, however, after all of this success, I am being shuttled 500 miles south today, to the Trail Days celebration in Damascus, Virginia. However, it seems like due time for some relaxation. After this weekend though, I am onward to the second half of the trail, to keep the pendulum swinging!

4/30-5/3/08 to Cow Camp Gap Shelter

5/3/08  16 miles  Cow Camp Gap Shelter

I have only outrun fate for a while, but now the inevitable has caught me---I’m confined with the Boy Scouts!  After 50 miles in the past two days and an impending storm, I have been forced into this shelter for warmth and rest. I think I concealed my insane ambitiousness tonight after suppressing my urge to hike the extra nine miles to the next shelter. Tomorrow however, I should have ample time to resort my thoughts at the Dutch Haus Bed & Breakfast. For now, however, I live in the void of thru-hikers.

 5/2/08   26 miles  Punchbowl Shelter

Today was a desolate hike, punctuated with bursts of company. The 13 miles to Matt’s Creek Shelter was arid and tortuous, but afterwards I was rewarded with a ride into Glasgow, VA and a pint of Cherry Garcia Ben & Jerry’s ice cream. This sustained me for another 9 miles to the Punchbowl shelter. Hiking into the night was somewhat disquieting, especially after seeing the silhouettes of looming creatures, including a bear!

5/1/08  23 miles Thunderhill Shelter

As the season unfolds and the woods become more hospitable, they become more crowded as well. Luckily my dirty, emaciated looks have solicited enough sympathy for food. Donations from section hikers have included prunes, cheese, almonds, chocolate, ramen noodles and M&Ms. Unfortunately, my food bag seems to hover at a constant weight, never getting lighter. Today I conquered Apple Orchard Mountain, devoid of orchards but adorned with a panoramic radar tower. It is also the highest point until Mt. Moosilakee, New Hampshire. Also I caught Handyman at the shelter, a surprise encounter since I have not seen him since before Hot Springs.

4/30/08  18 miles Bobblets Gap Shelter

It has been another lonesome day rounded at the end with company.  However, as I grow more capable as a hiker, I become more sufficient as a person, more secure and peaceful in my mind. The terrain is becoming more moderate, the weather is getting warmer, spring is unfurling its majesty all around, and my mind is clearer than ever before.

               In Daleville I bought open shoes by Keen, which have significantly improved my footing. Tonight I am camped with an eclectic band of section-hikers, all much more savvy of the AT than normal and at least wise enough not to wear denim!  The pride of my evening was building a fire on which to roast s’mores from a package I carefully toted 18 miles from the highway, left by a charitable trail angel.

Mile 800

This morning I rushed away from the slovenly den of Boyscouts at 5:00 am, breaking my 800th mile somewhere around the time of sunrise. Only the pictures can come close to doing my journey justice, because words just don't capture the feelings of standing on the roof of the world! Things seem to get better everyday too- springtime is settling in, and the hiking community is becoming tighter. Also, I have gained about 7 pounds- hopefully accountable in muscle mass. Here is a cyberspace thanks for my mom, for posting all my previous entries and pictures!

4/26/08-4/28/08 to Catawba Mountain Shelter

4/28/08 14 miles Catawba Mountain Shelter

Today the weather turned from a comfort to a crucible. It rained incessantly until noon—almost 20 hours of precipitation since last evening. But climbing the Dragon’s Tooth to meet a glorious gap in the sky was definitely a triumph greater than the challenge. My resupply trip to Catawba proved to be far more rewarding than I could expect. Railroad King was present to witness the luck my hitchhiking thumb wields. Two students from Virginia Tech drove us to the General Store and even paid for our supplies! We returned the favor by presenting them with our gluttonous eating spectacle. After a few fertile pasturelands and rocky ridges, I arrived here in the company of three section hikers who helped build a superb fire. Tomorrow morning I will reach McAfee Knob for Sunrise.

4/27/08 23 miles Pickle Branch Shelter

The rain is gently falling on this placid shelter and the garlic is gently digesting in my violent guts…the essence of camping.

4/26/08 19 miles Laurel Creek Shelter

I have finally broken the threshold of a new hiking crowd—leaving my lonesome void. This arid morning I met Jukebox, Popeye, Thorny and ‘lil Mac, all seemingly disillusioned with society, yet enchanted with the wilderness. They chose to stay at the last shelter, but I braved the oncoming thunderstorms, ascended a monstrous mountain and arrived at this shelter to meet Twiggy, Spoc, Snake and Whitefish. The threshold of a new crowd!