7/2/08 18 miles to Plymouth, New Hampshire (Brett Durham’s house)
Fate has repaid my misery with wonderful rewards and now that I am in the company of old friends it is difficult to even remember the toil of the last few days. Thoughts of seeing my old New Hampshire home kept my feet moving, led me through swamps, clouds of insects and over ridgelines. I had promised my friend Brett to meet at a highway crossing by evening. This entailed walking 18 miles within 12 hours, a seemingly simple plan. But no matter how much I anticipated my timing or how fiercely I climbed, I had intense difficulty reaching the road; ultimately arriving just in time.
Though the Whites have been beautiful, the relentless, steep grade and jagged rocky landscape has slowed my pace drastically. Descending 3000 feet of slick rock faces or creek beds leaves my knees feeling like exploding, and then ascending the 3000 feet again zaps the strength that I have left. But all is well that ends well, and this is just the end of one chapter. I am happy to see that all of my friends here are thriving in the woods’ life. Brett still works for an environmental non-profit organization. Paul found a job with the Forest Service working with my old boss Ryan, who is getting married to Sarah, an old thru-hiker, this August. Everything is well in New Hampshire!
6/30/08 15.4 miles to Beaver Brook Shelter
Karma reaps its toll again. I feel like all of the frustrating and painful toil I have done today will surely equate to some bountiful glory, hopefully tomorrow things will be sweet with my old New Hampshire friends. I hiked an additional six miles today, confused by the chaotic jumble of trails. Mount Moosilaukee was a rewarding introduction to the White Mountains—clear views and a majestic atmosphere. Tonight LT, Dirty Harry and I are combating flies and telling stories.
6/29/08 19.3 miles Ore Hill Shelter
The challenge of New Hampshire has begun. Gone are the days of tranquil rolling ridges and now begin the rigorous combat climbs. Today included three major elevation gains: Smarts Mountain, Mount Cube and Ore Hill. Each one is a fiend to hikers. Today was also pivotal in that I met me first Southbounder, “Grace.” It is a good omen for what is north. Ryan and Sarah (friends I worked with on Squam Lake in Fall 2007) left me a note at a trailhead, telling me they tried to find me, but hopes of contact were futile. But I can look forward to seeing old friends very soon.
6/28/08 16 miles to Trapper John Shelter (near Hanover, New Hampshire)
I have been bound to Dartmouth for two days now, ironically. Last night I stayed in the house of Mary Friedman, another native of Winston-Salem and a Dartmouth student. It was both relaxing and indulgent to be in such a plush city. However, tonight I ran into the Dartmouth sophomore student outing trip. This would have been enjoyable if by cruel cosmic irony there weren’t thunderstorms that forced 12 of us into a 6-person shelter. It certainly has been a great impetus for telling stories.
6/27/08 20 miles to Happy Hill Shelter
Thus it is time for my final reflections on Vermont, this wild 12th state. The long Trail and all of its history, challenges and travelers was an amazing connection to the land, and I have enjoyed all the crazy Vermonsters along the way. Recently the AT has been tedious and difficult, but hopefully I can forget the hardships and only carry the sweet memories of campfires into the future. Last night Trill, Allgood, Footloose, Pebble, Sunnyside and I had an epic thru-hiking night, a great opportunity to reminisce on the adventure thus far. The rain and pain I have tolerated well, but to stay sane now I say goodbye Green Mountains and hello to the Whites.
6/24/08 19th birthday!
My birthday was sort of mundane. My most memorable celebration was simply gorging myself.
6/23/08 17 miles to Clarendon Shelter
There certainly need to be times of atonement and recovery after any challenge. Even though yesterday was dismal, my friend, Footloose, with whom I’ve been staying for three nights, has brought me back to good spirits. His peace, as well as the quirky wisdom from a trail geezer whose name I’ve already forgotten, have helped recover my ease. That and we had a good fire and whiskey tonight, practically early birthday presents.
6/22/08 19.3 miles to Big Branch Shelter
I felt unstoppable today marching through three thunderstorms, but crippled when I unpacked my bag and found my sleeping bag soaked.
6/21/08 14.7 miles to Spruce Peak Shelter
The family reunion was both successful and luxurious. It was more than a pleasant surprise to be transported instantly from an insect-ridden dirt path to a plush set of sheets in a Bed and Breakfast with sickening endless amounts of food. This encounter with all my family left me with high spirits, reborn in my hiker capabilities. Today was an easy day. I was certainly willing to accept the delay for breakfast at the Snow Goose Inn. Some of the greatest things in life aren’t things.
6/20/08 21 miles to Stratton Road Family Reunion (near Bennington, Vermont)
Life in the placid and timeless wilderness has been more chaotic for me recently than it should I have not yet fully escaped from the constraints of schedules and transient goals, but am trying to steer away from moving to a place or purpose and just begin walking. In Dalton, Massachusetts, I stayed at the legendary “Birdcage,” the highly trafficked home of Rob Bird, one of the legendary trail icons on the AT who gives away his resources to those in need without discrimination. The next day I crossed Mt. Greylock, the mighty crowning peak of Massachusetts and later entered the wide wilderness of Vermont. I feel the old thrill of the northern mountains, something that can only be captured in the smell of fir trees, the chill of morning fog and the steep stacks of rocks up the sides of mountains. Soon I will leave the shelter to meet my family at a road crossing. Hopefully they will be there or I will be stranded!
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