From a postcard received 3/21/08..

                                                       Snacks from Trail Angels

I am sitting here in the oasis of hospitality somewhere off the side of bleak highway 64 near Franklin, NC. Even in the most bitter throes of nature there are people to keep my spirit warm. Out here we call them ‘trail angels.’ After leaving the ridgeline I stumbled onto a group of kind elderly folks who welcomed me into a tarp with warm coffee, hot chocolate and sugary snacks.  From this point onward, my adventure is looking bright.

I will be stopping in Franklin this afternoon for crucial supplies and after that head out to conquer the Smokies. I am already adapted well to life in the wilderness and have grown a new physique, appetite and spiritual insight.  I feel detached from the realm of indoor living, but I still miss you all!

               Love, Michael/Ishmael

3/18/08 Rock Gap Shelter (102 miles N of Springer, 12 miles today)

Today was the only moderate respite I could expect from the trail after yesterday’s rigorous haul.  Chilly weather and hiking in the midst of clouds provided difficult conditions, but the terrain was overall very soothing. The first bear was sighted today by my friend, Last Minute. He seemed to enter a state of pandemonium after being confronted, but was luckily not mauled.

               The afternoon and evening were enjoyable since I had adequate time to relax and eat with a small shelter group. Sometimes crowded campsites are very stifling, but with this modest group of seven people I feel we appreciated one another’s company.

               Tonight and tomorrow violent storms are expected, but luckily I am perched on the edge of Franklin, NC where I can indulge in warm and dry conditions and find my crucial resupply.

3/17/08

After trekking 20 miles I am absolutely fatigued, but proud of my longest span of mileage thus far. It took true persistence to force my muscles and my mind over every summit, as well as 3 Clif Bars, a Snickers bar, 4 tortillas, peanut better and GORP.  I have honed my physique enough now so that that I can voraciously consume calories. But of course, a hiker is greater than the sum of his or her parts!  I am in North Carolina now, so I feel bolstered about leaving a state behind and walking closer to home.

3/16/08 Plum Orchard Gap (71 miles N of Springer)

After unsurpassed cordial treatment at the Blueberry Patch, I feel reborn both in spirit and physique. Essentially yesterday morning Peacock and I raced the oncoming thunderstorm to reach the amenities of town. We were caught in about an hour of violent rain onslaught and I especially suffered because of my porous Goodwill rain jacket and temporary pair of Crocs to combat my blister problem.

               After cleaning up at the Blueberry Patch I gained resupply at Hiawassee—food, knife and replacement Crocs. I seem to have a miraculous knack for losing gear, especially small utensils which are frequently put to use. I am still astounded by the general hospitality of mountain residents, like the woman who spontaneously offered to shuttle DaddyO, Peacock and I through the hail in Hiawassee.

               After a scrumptious organic breakfast at the Blueberry Patch, I was faced with the infuriating and restless task of waiting for my old boots to arrive in the mail. In the situation it was so easy to become frustrated and impatient with the Postal Service. But I must conquer the mentality of a rush or hurry. I am in the midst of the wonderful wilderness, encapsulated in timelessness.

               The boots never arrived, but a man offered me his old shoes—more trail magic—and I hiked back into the wild to experience the comforts of community again.

3/16/08 from the Blueberry Patch Hike Hostel Hiawassee

Dear tenants of an Unmoving Home:

I won’t include too many sentiments by hopefully you will understand that all is beautiful and lovely here. I am at the Blueberry Patch right now—a hospitable setting pulsing with hiker vibes. There are 13 of us in a Polish-sized room. I must congratulate you on wonderful food preparation. My meals evoke many jealous stare and drooling palettes. Crucial advice: do not include more than 5 days worth of food in any mail drop. I have adopted the approach of small but frequent resupply.  The choice and portions of breakfast and dinner have been very appropriate but always leave lunch purchases up to me for the sake of fresh bread. But do keep up the support. I always appreciate love from afar. Remember, variety is the spice of life! I hope you appreciate all of my correspondence. I am sorry it is so brief but I have been surprisingly rushed to resupply. 

Currently I am restlessly awaiting my old boots by Express Mail at the Blueberry Patch Hiker Hostel in Hiawassee, GA. I have 13 miles to cover today so I think I will be hiking into the evening. At least I can enjoy some solitude now to write a letter.

So far, my experiences have been as wild and radical as can be expected from a vagrant, rambling lifestyle. I’ve met many neat people on the trail and in town as well…courteous people willing to shuttle hikers around all day. I still feel unsatisfied after multiple trips to the buffet and a pint of ice cream!

In the morning, I use my alcohol stove, a coveted piece of gear to cook a wonderful breakfast and hot chocolate before packing away all my camping gear. Though I wear long underwear, pants, and a jacket to bed, after hiking I am soon warm enough for just shorts and a polypropylene shirt.  Within the course of the day I walk between 9 and 14 miles at least here in Georgia. I stop to eat a bagel with cheese for lunch or snacks with other hikers. I try to reach the shelter before 4:30pm. Usually shelters are full by this time with about an 8-person occupancy. After hiking all day in sweaty clothing it is crucial I change into dryer layers before settling in. I cook dinner around 5pm and am asleep by 8:30pm, ready to see more vistas the next day.

The one thing I am unsatisfied with is the weight of my pack-between 35 and 40 pounds, which is technically at the upper end of a good carrying capacity, about a quarter of body weight. There are men here 50-100 pounds heavier than me carrying lighter packs. I intend to change some camping inventory in Franklin and buy a lighter jacket, lighter tent stakes, a camelback to replace my Nalgenes, and lighter shoes.

In terms of food, I sincerely love all the creative mail drops and lovely labels from Eric. In general, I try not to carry more than four days of food, but I’ll need 5 days after Fontana Dam to get through the Smokies.

I hope everything is calm and cozy at home.

Peace, Michael/Ishmael

3/14/08 Tray Mountain Shelter (56 miles N of Springer, 6 miles today)

Darkness cannot exist without the absence of light and fortunately the sun always rises. Though yesterday was grim ad almost hopeless, today the horizon is bright again. After suffering troubling blisters on my heels from the monolithic Limmer boots, I was able to recover in Helen, Georgia. I am truly grateful to DaddyO and Peacock for bringing me into town and saving me from misery. After making moderate recoveries at Motel 6, we feasted at a Mexican restaurant and I successfully finished a pint of ice cream on my own! I am awaiting new shoes in the mail at Hiawassee. But in the meantime I am wearing DaddyO’s crocs. Today was a moderate mileage day, to promote recovery, but tomorrow we must brave the brunt of the rainstorm to reach Hiawassee, the prospect in the valley. I roam with different packs of hikers every day, but so far on of my favorites is Handyman. He is an older inspired man, enchanted enough with the woods to heave his old life behind.

               Love, Ishmael

3/12/08 Low Gap Shelter (41 miles N of Springer, 14.4 miles hiked today)

I feel the blissful liberation I have felt after every fatiguing day. Today was certainly a test of endurance, and I feel grateful for taking the challenge I am beginning to feel the sense of a roving community more and more. Many of my early friends like Atraen, Voodoo, Avalanche, and Rabbits Foot have taken time off at Neel’s Gap. Tonight I stumbled upon an entirely new band of hikers. It is difficult to predict who will and will not finish…we are all such determined characters.

               Tonight I write from the light of the stars and I am rather surprised at my ability to be content at night with no shelter. Hopefully I am becoming a profit of the wild.

               Peacock and Daddy-O are greater friends and assets than I initially expected—very encouraging and open-minded. It is with them that I have formed the closest pact. Today I stumbled into my fist trail angels, an elderly couple at Hogpen Gap handing out soda and cookies. I abandoned all pretense at preferring healthy foods and devoured what was offered. In fact, I practically collapsed after running up Hogpen Mountain to reach them since I had heard of their favor down the trail.

               Unfortunately I have gaping blisters on both heels and I cannot find a solution. I feel strong enough to complete this journey and I cannot let that stop me!